|Maintaining good neighbour relations is paramount in the Spanish Quarter if you want to avoid paying to dry your clothes at a laundromat.|
|Awesome graffiti and paste-ups on display throughout the city's laneways|
|No caption needed, really: Le Due Sicilie has delicious cakes, all of which you want to eat.|
Hotel Ginevra. Yep, it's a hotel in the dodgy 'hood north of Piazza Garibaldi (and yes, the hotels are always dodgy closest to the train station). 'Hotel' is a bit of a loose term here: it occupies half a floor in a walk-up building, and it feels like somewhere you'd go to conduct an extra-marital affair in New York in the 1970s (complete with ash trays on the bed-side tables). But there's reliable wi-fi, it's much cheaper than a double room in a hostel, and you can wake to the sounds of the morning chaos on the streets below - no need to set an alarm. Plus, if you score one of the 'Ethnic'-themed rooms... well, let's just say that'll be a stay to remember.
Hosteria Toledo. There are tons of 'authentic' trattorias that locals frequent, where you can sample fresh seafood and typical Neopolitan dishes, but this one is a favourite for good reason, plus it's located a block off Toledo's main thoroughfare - these back streets are a great place to explore and escape the heat in the afternoon. Seafood primi piatti hover around 10 euros.
Pepiton Bar. Piazza San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli in Naple's historic centre has undergone somewhat of a clean-up in recent times; wander in there at night and the vibe is distinctly hipster-grimy rather than sketchy-grimy. Pepiton Bar has played a big role in this transformation; the bar's manager has been a mover and shaker in creating a safe and happenin' haven for young people to hang out in the heart of the old town. The staff certainly look out for their patrons; when we asked the nearest place to buy cigarettes we were escorted down a laneway to an old woman selling ciggies from her apartment - it's safe to say we wouldn't have found that on our own!
|Pepiton Bar, in the piazza locals have nicknamed "Piazetta Orientale"|